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The smallest hooks out there begin at around a size 30. Sizes and AughtsĮssentially, fishing hook sizes start in the middle and work their way out. Here are the most important ones and what they mean. Instead, you have to wade through half a dozen different measurements in order to make your choice. You just look up a standard table of hook sizes and find one meant for your chosen species, right? Sadly, life’s never that easy.
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Fishing Hook Sizesįinding the right size hook should be simple. That’s why many anglers break or file off the barbs on their hooks. In short, barbed hooks are awesome for fish you plan to eat, but barbless hooks are better for catch and release. This lowers its survival rate, and makes it tougher to remove the hook. They make a bigger hole, and can get snagged or lodged deep inside a fish. However, barbed hooks cause much more damage to the fish than a simple point. Barbs can also make it tougher for a fish to throw the hook, meaning more meat in the cooler. Barbs are great for holding bait on hooks, and some hooks actually have multiple barbs because of this. The final thing worth mentioning is the barb. It also lets fly tyers get more creative with their designs. On the other end of the scale, a looped eye gives wet flies a little more weight. This keeps the weight down, helping the fly float properly. Dry fly anglers swear by a tapered eye, which is more slender towards the end of the loop. There are also a couple of eyes that you’ll only use with specific fishing techniques. You can thread the entire hook through the bait fish easily, just like a sewing needle. Finally, needle eye hooks are ideal for fishing with bait. Brazing a hook stops it bending or breaking during the fight. For bigger fish, anglers normally use a brazed eye – a loop sealed shut with melted metal. It’s easy to thread line through and works with a variety of knots. Some eyes are also strengthened to deal with the pressure of big game battles. There are specific eyes for certain knots and tying styles. Moving over to the blunt end, choosing the right eye can be just as important to your catch rate. The problem with knife edge points is that they cause a lot of damage to the fish. Sharpened on both sides and pointed away from the shank, they’re made for maximum penetration. Knife edge point: These guys mean business. However, they can make setting the hook much more difficult on tougher species. They cut through soft-mouthed fish and stay in place once they’re there. Hollow point: Hollow point hooks have a bent-in spike which curves down to the barb. They’re perfect for fish that thrash about when they’re brought to the boat. The tip faces towards the hook eye, keeping your force directly in line with its path through a fish’s mouth. Rolled in point: Rolled in points pierce deeply with the minimal amount of pressure. They’re also easier to sharpen than more elaborate varieties. Spear points run straight up from the throat, giving you decent penetration and limited damage to the fish. Spear point: This is the most common point and a great all-rounder. This keeps the hole small, reducing the harm to the fish and making it harder for it to throw the hook. They’re designed to pierce easily, and to cause minimal damage once they’re through. Needle point: Needle points taper in slightly towards the shank. The five most common points are as follows. No surprises then, that various hook points have been developed over the years. It’s the difference between a solid hookup and a near-miss. This is the business end of your whole setup. Out of all these parts, the ones with the most specific varieties are the point and the eye. On the other hand, having a wide gape lets you use larger baits to tempt big predators. For example, having a long, narrow shank is useful when working with thin baits like worms. Gap/Gape: The distance between the throat and the shank.Įach hook is tailored for a specific purpose.Eye: The ring that attaches the hook to a lure or a line.Shank: The same as the throat, but on the blunt end.
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